The chalkboard on the sidewalk outside the door exclaims: "Happy Easter! Come on in!" Inside, the sign over the bar implores the clientele to "Be nice or fake it!" These homilies should give you some idea of the tone set by owners Billy Gruber and Jimmy Lemarie, at Liuzza's By The Track (not to be confused with Liuzza's Restaurant, an unrelated establishment).

The quintessential neighborhood joint, located just steps from New Orleans Fair Grounds, Liuzza's is the natural place for Mid-City locals and horserace enthusiasts to congregate. Patrons slap one another on the back in welcome, laughter rolls off the walls, and visitors from other neighborhoods and other states watch the characters, listen to their stories and enjoy the great food that Billy cooks.

During the 1930's Billy's father owned a handful of eateries called "Meal-A-Minit" restaurants. He taught his son that the best food -- fancy or not -- was homecooked, and the lesson stayed with Billy. At his own joint he serves only food that is cooked on-premise, food "we all grew up on." So the Reuben is made with corned beef that Billy simmered himself for hours; the turkey in the po'boy was roasted by Billy; the chicken in the club sandwich was grilled by Billy.

Food is served only until 8:30 at Liuzza's BTT, so get there early or you'll miss one of the best gumbos in town and the deep-fried oysters drizzled with roasted garlic butter.

The daily specials attract serious down-home food-lovers: shishkabob -- skewers of grilled filet mignon tips and vegetables; deep-fried eggplant stuffed with a savory shrimp dressing; "Comfortable" pork chops and mashed potatoes with a sauce of Steen's cane syrup and Southern Comfort. Another sign, pinned prominently near the TV on the wall, reads "The specials of the day are B-B-Que shrimp and corn and crawfish chowder with one-half po'boy -- mmmm good!"

Liuzza's By The Track is completely unself-conscious in its celebration of innocent pleasures. With Jazzfest coming up, Port-o-Lets are being rented and plans made to accommodate the horde of 'festers passing through. The party begins at 9 a.m. each Jazzfest morning, when "killer" bloody marys are whipped up by the bartenders, the bar manager. Tables and chairs cover the sidewalks, and everybody stops by, especially late in the day, when Jazzfest closes for the night. Musicians who played that day at the Fair Grounds continue to play at Liuzza's, and the joint jumps far into the evening.

But if a good time is what you're after, you don't have to wait for Jazzfest or Easter or Mardi Gras; there's always a party at Liuzza's By The Track.